Eight years ago, after they were evicted from their Santa Monica apartment, John and Molly Chester bought 200 acres of land just outside of Los Angeles with the dream of becoming full-fledged farmers.
But 2011 would mark the beginning of a six-year drought, and the property was already eerily reminiscent of Oklahoma during the Dust Bowl. Instead of nutrient rich dark soil, John Chester, a director and producer, would hold dirt in his hands that resembled sand; it would blow like dust into the air as it ran through his fingers. The soil was so dry and clay-like, Molly Chester, a personal chef, could drop a fistful onto the ground—and it would not break.
Today, the Chesters grow 75 varieties of stone fruit, avocados, and citrus on the Moorpark property, named Apricot Lane Farms. They’ve found success not just as farmers, but as documentary filmmakers. They’ve chronicled their journey in The Biggest Little Farm, a film that has earned wide praise and a Rotten Tomatoes fresh rating of 90 percent and landed the Chesters an interview on NPR’s “Fresh Air.”
Heartfelt and visually beautiful, the documentary takes viewers inside the couple’s hardships, heartaches, and, ultimately, their triumphs. The film is as much about a couple chasing a wild dream with the help of their community as it is about the regenerative capabilities and interconnectedness of nature.
John Chester says he hopes the movie inspires people “to look more deeply into healthy biodiverse ecosystems to solve complex problems.”
The Biggest Little Farm illustrates how traditional farming methods, like crop-cover, compost, and worm castings, can transform once-dead soil into fertile ground.
A cover crop, which farmers plant to protect and enrich the soil (it’s usually a mix of grasses, clover and legumes), proved the best tactic for retaining water in the dirt at Apricot Farms, with an added headache that turned out to be a benefit. The healthy clover attracted gophers that also began to chew away the roots of young orchard trees.
John Chester eventually realized that nature already provided a counterbalance to gophers, in an animal he’d previously loathed: coyotes. Once they had gophers to eat, they stopped feeding on his chickens.
That cover crop proved especially invaluable last winter.
“When we had 24 inches of rain this year, nearly 140 million gallons of water stayed on the farm,” John Chester says. “What wasn’t used [was trapped by the crop cover] went back into the soil to recharge the aquifer we all depend on.”
The movie’s recurring theme is how it’s possible to work so hard and still have everything go wrong, like one bumper crop of stone fruit that grew only to have birds peck two-thirds of it, making it impossible to sell at market.
As the documentary’s cinematographer, John Chester skillfully drew upon his experience in the film and TV industry. There are long shots of grassy pastures and eucalyptus, and the sheep, highland cattle, and chickens that have helped keep the soil healthy, aerating it and gobbling up maggots. In one scene, a fluffy Great Pyrenees stands at attention, nose straight as an arrow, alert at the sound of a coyote at twilight. It’s impossible not to feel awe-struck at the magnificence of land.
Correction: An earlier version of this story misquoted the amount of rain that fell on Apricot Lane Farms. It was 24 inches, not 14 inches.
Comments
Nice story. Replenishing their aquifer is wise, and other CA farmers are doing the same this year. I think we may see a real nationwide trend develop where people leave their urban environments for the country and small town life. It’s more affordable, easier, healthier and it would really gain momentum if companies allow more people to work remote.
By Stephanie88a99 on 06.04.19 3:07pm
Yes! We could solve the housing crisis in so many of our cities if we would just encourage or require businesses to allow employees to work remotely. There are so many suburban and semi-rural areas that would see an influx of residents and economic growth.
By wake6830 on 06.05.19 9:53am
"Oh cool, that sounds like a relief," I say from my DTLA office desk. "Wonder how much a ranch costs? Can’t be that much since they were living in a Santa Monica apartment…"
…checks RealtyTrac… $9,500,000 purchase price in 2011?!
By SableCrow on 06.04.19 3:45pm
I had questions as soon as I saw they purchased 200 acres in SoCal – which is not cheap. Did an internet search and found an LA Times article on this. They had an investor friend who financed the project. I guess when you are white, live in Santa Monica and have rich friends you can give up your career to make a documentary about becoming a farmer.
By LADude on 06.04.19 3:59pm
Racist. It dilutes the argument especially when "whites" are becoming the fastest growing minority and are being attacked increasingly more because of these racist narratives from the mainstream media that thrives on fights and divisions. Otherwise the points are fine. Wish them well.
By Mryjtc1 on 06.04.19 5:22pm
Right? "Evicted from their SM apartment" and "inside the couples hardships" is misleading. The writer clearly wanted to make the reader empathetic towards the struggling middle class….yet the reality seems SO far from it. Why not include that an investor bought them the $10 million property? Their SM apartment was probably luxury, and their hardships are hardly that compared to those actually wondering where their next meal is coming from. Wish them well but please don’t insult those not as fortunate. Some people get evicted and become homeless, not move into some fantasy life with gophers as their nemesis. Wish them well but would love the full, fair, true story and hope that the documentary reflects that and isn’t some "look at us, aren’t we aspirational??" nonsense.
By thingsfallapart on 06.05.19 9:12am
Nice story. Sounds like they have a life they love. California overall has pretty terrible soil for crops. nothing like further north and east where you have more rain and the constant cycle of things growing like weeds in the warm wet summer and freezing and turning into compost in the winter. The soils are dark and rich in places like the midwest and the east coast. Here its really dry clay and lacking nutrients. So you have to artificially enhance it and irrigate.
By LAoneWay on 06.04.19 3:55pm
It was either the 200 acres in Moorpark or a beach house in Malibu. Same price, but the farm made for a better book.
By Lord Kitchener on 06.05.19 4:27pm