Around Hollywood and Highland, the Hollywood Walk of Fame is as touristy as it gets. But just to the east, it’s really not much more than a sidewalk that gets very slippery when it rains. If you really want to see those famous red stars, it’s best to start around Hollywood and Vine (Metro’s B Line subway has a stop at that corner). The street isn’t too crowded there and you’ll get a nice view of the Capitol Records building. With a roomy sidewalk and lots of people-watching opportunities, it’s actually a nice place to walk—even for locals.

If you’re looking for Old Hollywood glamour, it’s hard to beat the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, which was nearly brand new in 1929 when it hosted the very first Academy Awards. You don’t have to be a guest to visit the hotel, which has multiple bars and restaurants. The Spare Room lounge has a vintage bowling alley, and the Tropicana Cafe sits alongside the hotel’s famous pool, painted by David Hockney in the 1980s.

One of the best record stores in Los Angeles, Amoeba occupies a cavernous space on Sunset Boulevard and sells tapes, CDs, books, DVDs, and knicknacks aplenty—all on top of good-old-fashioned vinyl. It’s a great place to browse, and if you go at the right time, you might even catch some live music.

Thanks to its famous forecourt, filled with the handprints of Hollywood luminaries, Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is the most recognizable movie venue in Los Angeles. But right across the street, you’ll find the glitzy El Capitan, where Citizen Kane premiered in 1944. It’s a dazzling theater, and it’s one of Hollywood’s best kid-friendly attractions. Now owned by Disney, the theater plays both new movies and classic Disney hits like Mary Poppins and Lady and the Tramp.

Nearly as old as Hollywood itself, this bar and restaurant is a Los Angeles institution. It’s also a bit of a time capsule. For decades, food’s been prepared on the same charcoal grill and served by waiters in distinctive red dinner jackets. Things are so consistent, in fact, that Musso and Frank’s played the 1960s version of itself in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood with hardly any set dressing required.

Here’s where you’ll find the final resting places of many stars of the silver screen, from Rudolph Valentino to Judy Garland. During the day and you can stroll around the grounds and admire the mausoleums and headstones. At night, the cemetery becomes an unlikely event space. Concerts and outdoor films are regularly scheduled here.

Hollywood may be synonymous with the film industry, but it’s also a good place to see some live theater. Roughly a dozen small theaters can be found on and around this stretch of Santa Monica Boulevard, where you can view anything from comedy shows to world premieres of newly written plays. Things really heat up in June, when the Hollywood Fringe Festival brings hundreds of original productions to the neighborhood.

This little strip of businesses is technically a little north of Hollywood, but it’s a nice compact alternative to the messy sprawl of Hollywood Boulevard. Kill some time browsing at Counterpoint Books; pick up a hard-to-find magazine at the Daily Planet Newsstand; peek through the privacy hedges at the chateau-esque Scientology Celebrity Center across the street. Just take it easy.

The Hollywood Bowl isn’t exactly under the radar, but it’s also one of California’s best outdoor venues and a great place to admire the hilly terrain of the Cahuenga Pass. If a live show isn’t in the cards, it’s still worth checking out the underrated Highland Camrose Park next door. The enclosed green space is a manageable half-mile hike from Hollywood Boulevard, and it’s a great picnic spot.

For some of the best views of Hollywood, head to the rooftop bar at this trendy hotel. From there, you can see the neighborhood’s eclectic skyline framed by the mountains and punctuated by the familiar letters of the Hollywood Sign. If you go during happy hour, it might not even cost you an arm and a leg.

Tucked into a narrow little space alongside the Pantages Theatre, the Frolic Room has been around since the 1930s. In that time, it’s hosted celebrities, theatergoers, and plenty of people just looking for an inexpensive drink. Its vibrant neon sign can be seen in L.A. Confidential, and writer Charles Bukowski was purportedly a regular.

It’s hard to beat the views from Yamashiro, which sits on a dramatic hillside perch above central Hollywood. The storied restaurant hosts a night market in the summer months and during the holiday season. There you’ll find crafts, food, cocktails, and live music. In off months, you can always eat at the restaurant (though be prepared to spend for those views).

The famous landmark is not actually in Hollywood, but it looms over the neighborhood like a watchful protector. To get up close to it, you’ll have to hike. Here are some of the best ways to see the Hollywood Sign.